Indian textile industry having long enjoyed protection had not paid sufficient attention to quality and competitiveness. However the SWOT analysis indicates that there exists tremendous potential for growth and development of Indian textile industry, provided technological upgradation and earnest efforts to become internationally competitive are committed. With the emergence of GATT, it is high time India takes things very seriously so that the opportunity of gaining major foot-hold in the global textile markets is not slipped-off.

The critical analysis of the present textile scenario affected by recent policy changes and restructuring in comparison to the one at international Level, professional management skills, technology integration, innovations in diverse product development and futuristic vision are the topics of the papers which are being presented by eminent industrialists, top bureaucrats, expert professional and renowned scientists. The diversity of these topics with united vision of Integration will provide enough stimulating effect.

It is the policy of the government to boost exports and diversify the same in terms of commodity and country coverage. In fact it tries to bridge the country’s yawning trade gap and to bolster foreign exchange reserves.

With the above objectives in mind, the 100% Export Oriented Unit (EOU) scheme started with much fanfare in December 1980. This scheme did not progress till 1987. This was due to the fact that there was no provision for the sale of products or even to process waste, in the domestic tariff area (DTA).

Realising the potentialities of the 100% EOU scheme, in 1987, government announced a number of policy measures which aimed at giving an impetus to exports.

Under this new scheme, 100% EOUs were permitted to set up 25% of their production in DTA, with the purchaser having to pay excise duty, sales tax and other taxes applicable on the goods.

The second attempt to review the scheme was also not successful, due to cumbersome procedures and guidelines to be followed in selling the product in DTA. Hardly there were any takers. Very few companies like Eurotex came forward to take-up this scheme.

The third attempt to review the scheme was made in the year 1991, where series of measures to simplify the procedures were announced as a part of the government’s liberalisation drive. This attempt had desired effect in the minds of takers, 100% EOUs started mushrooming all over the country, thus ushering an ‘ERA OF EOUs’!

It is the time for us to do introspection and accept the fact that there is relatively very low degree of modernisation taken place in our weaving sector making it absolutely difficult to expect production of quality fabrics at a competitive cost which is the need of the hour. There is every likelihood that our own market will be flooded with cheaper goods from neighbouring countries, if no steps are taken towards lowering our production cost of the fabric. Indeed, it calls for strategic planning and integrated approach wherein every stage of manufacture of fabric is given due attention in terms of efficiency of the process, quality of the product, etc.

Sizing plays a paramount role in making of quality fabrics and deserves a significant attention to be paid to this processing stage. Loom efficiency, cost effectiveness and quality of fabric manufactured are greatly dependent on how the sizing process is carried out.

Indian industry, having long enjoyed protection, has not paid sufficient attention to quality and competitiveness. Globalisation of the economy has brought in tremendous potential for the growth and development of industries and commerce in the country. The impact was more felt by the textile industry especially manufacturing yarns for export.

It has been noticed that high incidence of yarn fault is a major concern even in the most modern mills. Hence there is a need for detailed information on identifying the causes of unsatisfactory yarn quality and to arrive at proper selection of raw material, technology, manufacturing conditions and precautions to produce yarn of international quality standards.

The Textile Industry presently too it is still the major, single most foreign exchange earner and holds a key position in the Indian economy. However, activities of Composite Mills in Mumbai have been drastically reduced leaving many units totally closed and many more critically sick. There are of-course a number of reasons for this pathetic situation and to survive in the present day globalised trade, it goes withour saying that total restructuring and modernisation of these Textile Mills is a must. The huge cost of modernisation thus can only be met by developing the surplus land owned by these Textile Mills.The cost of land in Mumbai all these years has skyrocketed and in the recent past it was reported to be the costliest in the World. One of the reports estimates the land value of Textile Mills to the tune of Rs. 15,000 crore. However, it is also a known fact that last two years there has been a considerable decline in land cost in Mumbai as is observed in other metropolis too.

Because of the paucity of funds and dire need of investment for modernisation of Mills, the surplus mill land has attracted a lot of attention from all corners and thus the topic of this seminar "Land Resource – A Remedy to Textile Sickness" has been a most appropriate one.

The liberalisation of economy coupled with globalisation of the trade has put our textile industry in an international competition. The phasing out of the multi fibre arrangement (MFA) by 2005 AD will surely put us in free-for-all competition. The players who are in a position to give maximum attention to productivity, quality and economy will service in such games.

The picture of composite Textile Mills is very much gloomy since this industry is trapped between the machinations of the powerloom sector and the cut-throat competition at the Global level.

How would then, these organised Textile Mills survive in near future? There is no second opinion that they have to go in for modernisation and they have to accept a new role in up-market as a quality producer of speciality fabrics which are in demand on both the fronts – domestic as well as international one. There has been initiative from some of the Mills in this direction and time will decide their impact in relation to the quantity and quality of similar products available Globally not forgetting the cost factor.

The Textile Industry in India is the mother industry and it has given birth over the years to a number of industries since the profit earned out of the textile activities was invested in diversification of the business. Presently, when the economy is liberalised and the globalisation of the trade is bound to stay, this age old industry, deprived of modernisation and lack of sufficient operational finance, is faced with international competition which is rather difficult to withstand. The diversified activities grow and keep pace with the technological advancement taking place on the global level.There are a number of reasons almost known to every conscious player in this filed as to why textile industry is passing presently through a tough weather. However, one thing is sure that when we talk about textiles, the picture comes before us is either woven or knitted textiles and the activities relating to their manufacture and processing and at the most, garment making activities. There is an untapped of tremendous potential in terms of technical textiles or industrial textiles is concerned. Depending upon their application, these technical textiles are called as Agrotech, Buildtech, Geotech, Hometech, Indutech, Medtech, Mobiltech, Sportstech, Protech, etc. You name the field and textile application is sure to be there. When such a situation is prevailing and the textiles are indeed all encompassing.

The consumption of technical textiles and fibres on the global level is estimated about 10 million tonnes, worth about US $ 54 billions. This accounts to about 19% of the fibre used world over. In the period of 1985-1995, the consumption of technical textiles increased by about 54% in terms of quantity and 76% in terms of value. By the year 2005 A.D. the consumption of technical textiles is expected to increase by about 5% per annum. In the transport sector, 4.5 lakhs tonnes of technical textiles is used and it will grow with a rate of 6% per annum especially as the demand for composites is increasing day by day. Geotextile field is also pregnant with growth rate of 9%. The growth of technical textiles will vary from fibre to fibre, type of application and also regions in which they are consumed. But suffice to say that a tremendous promising potential is hidden in the field if technical textiles.

On the occasion of the 55th All India Textile Conference organized by Mumbai Unit of Textile Association (India). Theme of the conference "Emerging Trends on Textile Horizon". Many authors have taken painstaking efforts in preparing such highly informative and useful papers. In general, the authors’ views include:* Put in efforts to increase the yield of cotton per hectare
* Modernise various sectors for which schemes like TUF and CTM should be availed of
* Enhance the quality with cost reduction, deliver timely and adopt ecofriendly processing
* Designer’s role is that of a therapist
* Make labour intensive industry as "human intensive" being ready to face the new challenge.

The readers can get much clearer understanding of these views once they go through the "Proceedings" and interact with the speakers.

It is time we became globally competitive. Our product quality should be improved and our total outlook needs to be changed. The Indian textile industry very soon will undergo rapid modernisation and restructuring. The rationalisation of labour will be the need of the day. The new textile policy will any time be declared. The phasing out of MFA in the year 2005 will push the Indian textile industry into fierce competition. Newer trade blocks are getting crystallised. Indeed it is the dawn of a new era and the various trends are emerging out of the obscurity on the textile horizon

The Polyester Texturising industry in India has recorded massive growth so far from 10 thousand TPA in 1980 to 700 thousand TPA today & is further expected to go upto 1.7 million TPA by 2005. The major reason could be traced as, the inadequacy of natural fibres like cotton to cater the increasing demands of the growing population, making Polyester common man’s choice because of it’s perfection and inexpensiveness.This year cotton production is expected to be about 2.5 million MT in India that is about 25% of the Asian Production and 14% of world’s production in apparel sector. This at present has share of 82% and is not sufficient to cater the needs of the growing population in India. Therefore, Textured Polyester yarns have become an integral part of our life and it shall reach at least 30% by year 2005 from today’s 18% (Today China has 31% Polyester share).

In the apparel textiles, polyester made most significant gains amongst other synthetic fibres because of its excellent durability, easy wash-n-wear and wrinkle free characteristics. Along with its popularity, however, criticism arose on the property that it possesses touch, too much akin to plastic. In response to this criticism the synthetic fibre industry made several attempts to overcome this problem. One such attempt virtually led to the development of textured yarn with high Crimp Contraction i.e. Bulk, which possesses all qualities a consumer, desires aesthetically. High bulk yarn offers beautiful and elegant appearance, soft handle and comfortable touch. Texturising itself is a very broad term and encompasses process including False-twist, Air-jet, Stuffer box, Edge crimping, BCF yarn production and so on. However, in view of commercial importance, and the volume of production as well, the Flase Twist Texturising by far outweights all other processes.

The Knitting Industry has a very significant place in modern times. It started with undergarments, and now is used for causal wear, formal wear and even evening wear. The knitted fabrics is the most comfortable clothing for sports persons.

It is the need of the hour that manufacturing units are compelled to upgrade their machineries in the shortest time, which will make them viable to compete within our country and most importantly in the global market.

The latest development in knitting machineries & its components, the effect on processing on knitted fabric and last but not the least, the desire and commitment to produce the best knitted fabric to cope with the world demands and the cost effectiveness to compete with the best in the world.

The International Trade in textiles and clothing stood at US Dollars 334 in 1999. From 1974 till the end of Uruguay Round i.e. 1995, the trade in textiles and clothing was controlled by Multi-Fibre Agreement (Well known by its short form, MFA). MFA established quotas that restricted imports into countries, which faced serious threats for their domestic industries due to these imports. The Quotas set by USA and European Countries were the most visible and significant features of MFA. After 1995, the WTO agreement on Textiles & Clothing (ATC) has taken over from MFA. The ATC is a transitional process for ultimate removal of all quotas by January 2005. And from January 2005, even the ATC will be integrated into WTO rules. Thus, the quota regime will come to an end and the countries, which are the members of the WTO & have the signed the WTO agreement, will no longer be able to restrict imports from the other countries. This will herald a new era in trade in textiles and clothing. The global competitors will make and all out efforts in capturing as much as share of the total trade in textiles and clothing. Thus is the real challenge as well as a big opportunity for the Indian Textile Industry. Although, India's share in the global marker in a meager 0.6%, it is the second highest foreign exchange earner for the country. Not only this, the industry will face stiff competition and even for the domestic market, which itself is so large and so well protected all these years. How the Indian Textiles Industry should handle this situation, which is like "Do it now or perish otherwise". There are just two more years for the industry to gear up for itself. Secondly, all the sectors of the country - fibre, spinning / weaving, knitting, processing, garment, dyes / chemicals, handloom and textile machinery - are going to be affected differently and need distinctly different strategies to overcome the threat to their survival. How each sector should handle the situation and exploit it to achieve the very ambitious target set by the Ministry of Textiles. In fact, this is the theme of the 7th International and 58th All-India Textile conference.

It is indeed our proud privilege to release this Book of Papers - Proceedings of the Conference. It was out intention to cover all the sectors of the Indian Textiles industry by inviting the experts from the respective field and understand from them about their views, comments, strategies and plans for Post-WTO situation. So in a way, it was a little deviation from the conventional format of the conference. There are invited papers as well as contributed papers. Most of the authors have adhered to the theme of the conference. There are some papers, which deal with very specific subjects. These being advanced and new technologies, we are sure, our readers will understand and appreciate. All the authors, we must admit, have taken pains to prepare their presentations.

The Indian Textile Industry has faced challenges in the past, for example a ban on Azo Dye or the ban of Indian Leather goods. The industry, however, came out unscathed every time. The Post-WTO situation is, however, totally different. It is the question of survival for the Indian Textiles Industry. It is absolutely essential that everyone involved in the decision-making - the Government, the Industry with all its sectors, technocrats, financial Institutions, research institutions, exporters and experts should put together all efforts for strategic planning and achieve maximum of the situation. We are sure, all delegates and the readers will have the same after going through the proceedings.

Another novel feature of this conference is the Poster Paper presentation. It is the first time that the Poster Paper Session is held at The All-India Textile Conference. We are really thankful to the authors of Poster Papers for their overwhelming response. The abstracts of all Poster Papers are included in this Book of Papers. We are sure this precedent of Poster Papers will continue, which will encourage the research students in the textile institutes.

We express our sincere thanks to all members of paper committee - Mr. S.Y. Nanal, Vice-Chairman, Dr. A.N. Desai, Prof S.R. Shukla, Mr. V.D. Zope, Mr. Ulhas Nimkar and Mr. P.S. Pawar. We must mention that every member of the Paper Committee not only attended all Meetings of Committee, but also contributed in identifying topic & speaker.

We also thank Mr. G.T. Dembla, Chairman and Mr. C.V Radhakrishnan, Executive Director of India ITME society, for generous financial support for publishing this Book of Papers.

Polyester on the global level has registered a growth by 3% in the year 2002 against the year 2001, while all other Natural and Synthetic fibers have declined. It is worth to note that even the queen of textile fibers, i.e. - cotton production and consumption declined from 21 MN tons to 20 MN tons. The crisis in Textile industry has costed the jobs of 75,000 people in USA, closed over 3000 companies in Turkey and reduced 40% work force in Korea. Despite of this crisis, Polyester is growing, which indicates clearly that Polyester growth cannot be hindered in the 21st century.

The growth has taken place in those countries which are privileged with low labour cost, high labour output with disciplined work practice and culture, enriched with huge domestic market, with updated meaningful structures of technology, down stream potential, the quality conscious institutions and stable economy.

And accordingly, 29% growth has taken place in China, 17% in India, 12% in Taiwan, 5% in Indonesia and 6% each in Korea & Turkey between 1994 and 2002. Interestingly, growth in texturising is registered in these countries for the past 3 years adding approximately 1100 machined in China, 180 in India, 50 machines in Taiwan, 20 machines in Indonesia, 30 machines in Korea and 90 machines in Turkey. From this, one can easily conclude that China is utilising its fullest potential, Taiwan, Indonesia, Korea and Turkey have done their best sustainable conditions, whereas India is yet to use its potential fully, by uprooting the outdated hindering structures. This is very inevitable, & a need of the hour, otherwise India will miss the leadership in the field on texturising.

The Indian Textile Industry is gearing up to face the quota-free regime from January 2005. All the textile sectors spinning, weaving, processing, knitting and last but not the least the garment - have to complement each other. In this chain, the chemical processing is probably once the weak links in the Indian Textile Industry and needs to strengthen immediately.

There are different components involved in the processing. These are machinery, dyes / chemicals, raw material / fabric, water & power, effluent treatment, quality testing and even the laws / regulations & requirement by different countries for different applications. It is rather pre-requisite that the processor / exporter is familiar with all these components very well.

All these aspects of chemical processing needs expert handling and are dealt with by the eminent speakers who are specialists in their field, in the book.

Presently, there is also reluctance on the part of many deserving entrepreneurs to invest in processing with the fear that return on investment may not permit such investment. The book has covered this aspect also.

There were certain policies, particularly the prohibitive high duties, prevented the processors from installing the advanced machinery to produce the quality fabrics. With the lowering of the import duties, particularly for textile industry, it is time to gear up to face the challenge. This is the theme of the book.

It gives me please to release this book of papers presented at One-day seminar on the Chemical Processing Challenges for the Indian Textile Industry held in Mumbai. All the authors are experts in their field. We have attempted to give due representation to all components of processing. We have deviated from the conventional format of the seminar by devoting a complete session for Panel Discussion. The panel comprised again the experts from processing, dyes / chemicals, India Machinery manufacturer and garment sectors. We have included their views also in this Book, which should be useful for the readers.

We are thankful to all the delegates who have shown keen interest in attending the seminar, which is the prime motivation force to organize this function.
We complement M/s. SGS India Pvt. Ltd., M/s. Raymond Ltd., M/s. CHT (India) Pvt. Ltd., M/s. Associated Chemicals, M/s. Meghmani Dyes and Intermediates Ltd., M/s. L.N Chemical Industries, M/s. Sohan Dye Chem Pvt. Ltd. and all advertisers, for their support to make this effort a success.

We express our sincere thanks to all members of the paper committee for their contribution, particularly Mr. Ulhas Nimkar, Mr. Sunil Chari, Dr. M. D Teli, Mr. Anil Patel, Dr. Sanjiv Kamat and Mr. P. S Pawar.

I also would like to thank Mr. Vijay Vaingankar of Praj Advertising and Display for taking all the efforts in timely printing this book.

The entire world will become one market for Textiles from 1st January 2005, when the quota era will come to an end. Quantity restrictions will be removed and the economies which are predominantly depending upon textiles may face serious consequences unless they modernize their textile industry and able to withstand competition. Therefore, these countries will have to either modernize their textile industry to withstand the world competition or vanish from the textile map of the world.

The textile industry is undergoing drastic changes in order to face the Post Quota Era. The Chinese Textile industry is gearing up fast in order to face the challenges in the Post Quotation Era. But the pace of modernization process of the Indian Textile Industry is slow.

The biggest impediment of the textile industry is the high cost of production, especially on account of high cost of power, low productivity of labour, lack of marketing strategies, etc. Unless clean, regular, quality power is provided with tariff at international level, the decentralized textile industry of India will not be modernized. What is required is concerted effort by the entrepreneurs as well as various agencies of the government for speeding up the pace of modernization of the Textile Industry. The weaving sector and the processing sector are the most vulnerable sectors in the Textile Industry and speedy measures are taken before the Post Quota Era, the Indian Textile industry will face serious difficulties.

The government has announced various schemes for the development of the Textile Industry and the entrepreneurs should take advantage of these schemes by forming clusters at various places. We have hardly one year when we will be faced with new challenges and opportunities. We need to do speed up the modernization, reduce cost of production, develop textiles, form consortiums of textile units at various clusters in order to take advantage of economies of scales, adopt market strategies so that India can face the challenges. If India can be a leader in IT; it can also become a leader in TI. With this in view, SASMA in association with Textile Association India (Mumbai Unit) has thought fit create this book based on One-day seminar on "How to get best from shuttleless weaving" so that experts in the field can educate the industry on various aspects of increasing productivity, reducing cost by availing various development schemes announced by the government and also by forming consortiums at clusters.

We hope that the central government as well as the state government will respond to the call and the entrepreneurs will rise to the occasion and face the challenges and opportunities in the Post Quota Era.

It gives us pleasure to release this Book of papers presented at One-day seminar on "How to get best from shuttleless weaving". All the authors are experts in their field. We express our sincere thanks to them for giving papers on time. We have attempted to give due representation to all components of weaving. We have deviated from the conventional format of the seminar by devoting a complete session for panel discussion. The panel comprised the experts from government officials, machinery manufacturers, financial institutes & professional practitioners.

We are thankful to all the delegates who have shown interest in attending the seminar, which is the prime motivating force to organize this seminar.

We compliment M/s. Grasim Industries limited (Staple Fibre division), M/s. Texport (India), M/s. Banswara Syntex Ltd., M/s. Sutlej Industries Ltd., M/s. Universal Knitting Mills Pvt. Ltd., Union Bank of India, Sultex India Pvt. Ltd., and all the advertisers, for their support to make this effort a success.

We express our sincere thanks to all members of the organizing committee, for their contribution in making this event a success.

We also would like to thank Mr. Vijay Vaingankar of Praj Advertising & Display for taking all the effort in timely printing this book.

We wish all success to Textile Industry in the Post Quota Era.

The Texturising industry is growing at faster rate in Asia and more particularly in India and China. The quantitative growth shall be meaningful if the qualitative growth also takes place simultaneously. This is very important factor for both the leading countries India and China. Especially the Indian Texturising Industry has to make a note of it being a very need of the hours and should march towards "TEXTURISING EXCELLENCE" as a challenge.

The experts have predicted continuos growth potential on texturising industry. We have witnessed the same in the past two decades and there is no doubt that the same trend will continue at the enhanced rate for the next two decades. It is true that these industries are vanishing from Europe & USA but is compensated in the south Asian countries. Accordingly India had witnessed an addition of 250 texturising machines from the past one year enlightening Indian Texturing industries responsibilities to be meet the global demands in addition to the domestic demand. To fulfill this responsibility the industries had to work towards excellency jointly with professional bodies, scientists, academics and government authorities.

The authors of the papers of this book have focussed their attempts at the best of their knowledge in the micro areas of texturising process details, defects analysis for avoidal, due care details on dyeing and or finishing of Textured yarn / fabric, expectations of High Class weaving sector on Textured Yarn, right an appropriate finish lubricants availability / usage as well as the supporting infrastructure availability from the Government of India in this direction. These Tips and guidance are valuable & useful to achieve "TEXTURISING EXCELLENCE"

January 1, 2005, A date eagerly awaited by most of the Indian Textile Industry. The industry is poised for a turbulent time. Explosive growth is foreseen for the country in the textile field and India will emerge as one of the major clothiers to the world.

With our rich heritage of fabric production, the skills inherent in our country, the vast pool of talent and labour, there is not doubt that India will shine as a beacon.

Consolidation, progress, investments, retail, infrastructure, technology. All of these are the drivers towards the Indian success story. Five years from now, the industry is likely to be very different from what it is today. The Indian industry will have to think and work long and hard to achieve pre-eminence in world trade.

With global competition in all fields, quota free exports, foreign investment in all sectors it is necessary to look at the big picture. From fibre to yarn to fabric to end-product manufacture to retail to customer, if we are able to take a birds eye view of the path ahead and the goals that are set for the Indian industry, we would be able to chart the course accurately with clearly defined task for each sector of the textile industry.

It would require clear policy meticulous planning and implementing it within the time frame. This is the them this book, "TEXTILE VISION 2010"

It gives me great pleasure to release this book of papers - proceedings of the conference. It was our intention to cover all sectors of the Textile industry, which was not possible doe to the time constraints. Nevertheless, we have covered broad spectrum of the textile sectors. There are invited papers and contributed papers. There are also technical papers, which cover the technological trends in future. All the authors, experts in their field - have shared their knowledge & vision as Indian as a clothing powerhouse in the year 2010. The conference will help to provide a clear vision and direction for the Indian Textile industry - Textile Vision 2010. We are confident that this would not only meet the goals set but also surpass it.