The Textile Association (India) Mumbai Unit (TAI) organized the International Conference on 16th & 17th January 2009 at Hotel Intercontinental the Lalit, Mumbai. The theme of the Conference was “Global Textile Opportunities – Vision India”.
Mr. Mahendra Tanna, Vice-President, TAI Mumbai Unit welcomed the Chief Guest, Dr. J. N. Singh, Jt. Secretary, (Textiles) Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Guests of Honour, Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Mr. Man Mohan, Chief Operating Officer, Polyester Sector, Reliance Industries Ltd., Guests, Mr. Atul K. Bhagwati & Mr. V. S. Chalke, Speakers, Press, Media and delegates.
Mr. C. Bose, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit mentioned in his presidential address gave the details about The Textile Association (India) and said that this is the first time that unit has arranged 2 days International Conference. He said the initiatial preparations of this conference started in March 2008 when the market atmosphere was very healthy. The sudden financial crises in US and there after 26/11 incident in Mumbai brought tremendous on the organizing committee of this conference. He congratulated Mr. V. C. Gupte the Convener and his team for the efforts taken by them. He was very confident that the participants will be benefited from this conference.
Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman of the Mumbai Unit & Convener, also said that this conference was planned one year back when the situation was very good. It suddenly changed during last 3 months due to the economical crises in US and Europe which affected the global economy.
Indian economy was not exception and it could not insulate from the global meltdown. The textile and the retail big stores were significantly affected. It was followed by the heinous terror attack on Mumbai. It changed everything. He said that after 26/11 incident we thought of postponing this Conference. But due to the support and advice received from our sponsors, well wishers and speakers, especially our overseas speakers, stood by us and gave us the courage to organize the conference as per the original schedule. The Managing Committee of Mumbai Unit decided to give proceeds of this conference to those who were killed & affected in the terror attack.
He said there was mix of technical and general topics our of which many topics are never covered in any seminar like International acquisitions & mergers. He said about 60% of the speakers are from overseas.
He said that sincere efforts are been made to cover the contemporary topics in this conference which would set in thought provocation and all of us will have an enlightened and additional knowledge.
Mr. A. B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, in his address said that Indian is 2nd largest textile economy in the world after China. The Global Textile Market is US $ 530 billion comprising of US $ 219 billion of textiles and US $ 311 billion of clothing’s. India’s share in the Global trade 3.68% as against China sharing about 27.18 %. Even smaller countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan and Thailand have a big market share. He said Govt. of India initiated schemes like Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC), Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) and rationalized the fiscal duty structure. The Govt. is confident on implementations of these schemes in the 11th Five year plan the exports will grow at the @ of 22% and will reach US $ 55 billion by 2012. He suggested that the technical textiles which is a niche area and have immense opportunities in the global market should also be explode very seriously.
Mr. Man Mohan, Chief Operating Officer, Polyester Sector, Reliance Industries Ltd. in his address pointed out that Global markets have seen unprecedented changes in a very short span of time. This opens up new avenues and opportunities for the textile industry.
He said that he will be discussing following points.
Long Term Global Scenario • The India Advantage • India – Looking ahead • Reliance & India
Long Term Global Scenario: India is an emerging player in the global arena of textile industry with many avenues to capture in coming times, India has a bright future to look onto and emerge as a leading contributor to world textiles. In this rising demand, man made fibres, finding use in diversified applications, would grab the lion’s share of 67% by 2015 from the current level of 62%. Despite a slump in 2008, due to global demand slowdown, I expect India to maintain a steady growth in coming years as demand picks up across the world.
The India Advantage: The Indian textile industry has to its advantage many supporting factors. The impact of current global crisis on GDP has been relatively moderate than in the past. The Indian GDP growth expected to dip marginally by 1% to about 7%.
India – Looking ahead: The industry has a lot to look ahead in the coming years in terms of market growth and adoption of newer technologies and areas of application. Bright future is instore for the textile industry. According to CITI estimates the industry is expected to grow to 110 billion dollars by 2012. These estimates may slightly change because of present economic crises.
Reliance & India: Now, I will highlight how Reliance has been closely associated with the success story of the Indian textile industry. Reliance has emerged to be counted amongst the largest and the best companies across the globe. World no. 1 in polyester production, is also acknowledged for being the 19th most innovative company globally.
The Chief Guest, Dr. J. N. Singh, Jt. Secretary, (Textiles) Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, while delivering address said that the Indian textile industry has been affected due to the devaluation of US dollar as low as Rs.38 per Dollar during October/November2008 and the same got revived due to upward revision of dollar and has reached almost Rs. 49 .However, the current world economic recession has brought newer problems to the sector as the industry has a major role as one of the leading exporter of the textiles and clothing to USA and Europe. If one compares the situation in other nations like China and Turkey, the recession has not so much affected the Indian industry. However, this is challenging time to go ahead and show our strength. There is more, in my opinion a psychological factor rather than a real danger.
The Textile Association, Mumbai Unit felicitated Mr. Atul K. Bhagwati, Chairman, A. T. E. Group of Companies and Mr. V. S. Chalke, Managing Director, Oriental Synthetics & Rayon Mills Pvt. Ltd. with Life-Time Achievement Awards for their contribution in the field of textile industry. The audience gave both of them a standing aviation.
Various topics related to the theme of the conference were deliberated in six technical sessions by eminent speakers from India and abroad. Some of the high lights of each session are as follows:
Policies &Strategies for Textile Industry by Dr. C. S. Gokhale, Group President, Corporate Development, Reliance Industries Ltd. – Textile industry has already passed the protection era. Government may create regulatory and policy frame work that allows the textile industry to grow and prosper. However, the need of the hour is to that all the stake holders in different sectors should work together to strategically achieve the super ordinate goals Viz; make the Indian Textile Industry globally competitive. Due to sectoral interest groups which worked as interest groups, there have been instances of each sector working with cross purpose. Therefore all sectors of textile industry should work together to arrive at a common agenda for facilitating the healthy policies. Further, majority of actors in the industry are SMEs which are fragmented and add another dimension to the issue to get globally competitive on conversion cost.
Acquisition and Merger in Textile and Retail way forward” by Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Vice President Technopak Advisors Pvt Ltd. – Merging and acquisition is aimed at increasing growth, enhancing the capabilities and develops new markets. Speaker has listed the major consideration for merger and also given the matrix of evaluation of the merger and acquisition. In the current scenarios, there is a need to merger and acquisition as it has several advantages to improve the business prospects. Some of the illustrations of M&A with reference to Indian enterprises were discuss. Alok industries aditya Birla Nuvo (madura garments) Bombay rayon’s are illustrated as case studies .Emphatically Bombay rayon whose net sale rose to rupees 100 crores in span of 4yrs . It is mainly attributing to M&A.
Green Textile Process House –The Essence for Survival by Dr. Charu Jain, Dystar Textile Service, Ecology Solutions, DyStar, Singapore - Green Textile Process House is the need of the hour, it links to corporate social responsibility, resource conservation, reduce the cost and align with future. Pollution and toxic chemicals used in the process are easily noted by the world at large due to information era. Therefore sustainable textile processing with minimal use of resources, and chemicals, thereby eliminate the use of toxic substances. This may finally lead to cost reduction and enhancing the confidence of the customer.
Military Defense Uniforms by Mr. Oliver Spoker, FR Global Head, Lenzing, Austria – Use of textiles in defense is increasing day by day due to the potential advantages in various areas. The speaker described the flame retardant fiber namely lenzing FR which has permanently flame resistant .The advantage of permanent FR versus treated fabrics using finish were enumerated these fibers are non-toxic and therefore eco-friendly. Dope dyed aramid is another promising fiber with better abrasion resistance and low heat stress .It also imparts comfort factor due to low heat stroke .The author has narrated the scope for blending aramid with that of lenzing FR in respect of defense application as these fibers are well suited for manufacturing of defense uniforms .
Technical Textiles – Opportunities for Import Substitution by Mrs. Rupali Chitnis, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt Ltd. – India is a net importer of technical textiles. According to ICRA studies, growth of technical textile is expected to be around 12-13% per year by 2012-2013.
Various factors such as demographic pattern policy environment, government initiatives, and present scenario in the developed nations were discussed to arrive at the focal point of the presentation. The vision of the industry could be to treat technical textiles as the most important sector for future growth in India.
Leading the Movement for Eco-friendly &Sustainable Textiles-Manmade Cellulose by Mr. Vijay Kaul, Birla, Cellulose Ltd. In his absence, the paper was presented by his colleague, Ms. Mahuya Chaturvedi. – Cellulose products are eco-friendly due to their natural polymer base and biodegradable property. With advent of technology these fibers are manufactured with minimum pollution, and generate minimum waste. These are less hazardous, and energy efficient. In net shell, these fibers follow the recycling process .Speaker brought forth the concept of eco- confidence through the adaptation of various eco-labels, Viz; Oekotex, Blue Angel. Keeping this in view, the speaker detailed the theology and strategies in this endeavor by Birla Cellulose- The leader in the manufacture of cellulose fibers in India. The concept of “From Plantation to Fiber to Fashion” and various initiatives such as R&D, Product Innovation leading to manmade cellulose fibers eco-friendly and sustainable were listed. As a result of these efforts, the organization received several prestigious awards. It is brought out that the vision of the company’s initiatives can inspire the industry towards eco-friendly textile.
Functionalized Sols for Industrial Applications by Mr. Andreas Troscheit, CHT R Beitlich, Germany - Functionalized sols for finishing are an innovation through the frontier areas of science and technology in textile manufacture. The philosophy is more like reverse process Viz Making macro to micro to nano particle to get the latent effect of tiny invisible nature to get the advantage in effective surface areas and associated advantages for the production of durable finish. This is discussed with regard various finishing chemicals developed by their company. Different finishing chemicals include the UV protection, antimicrobial finish, antistatic etc.
The author illustrated the importance of newer technologies to be applied for durable finish in textiles.
Value Addition on Denim by Mr. Jochen Stillger, A. Monforts Textile M. Co. Ltd.,Germany – Value addition is possible through product development and enhancing certain inherent properties so that the end product is sold at higher price apart from boarding the market base. It is noted that intangible value addition in the manufacturing environment is due to cost reduction in terms of saving in energy input material decreasing expenditure in waste water treatment etc. In this context, the speaker presented a case study of cost reduction processes namely soft coating .The process involves either one side coating or two side coating using single or multiple formation. The process involves the application of nano technology, Cost reduction by cutting; drying cost and increase the productivity .It also create functionalities as desired with two side effects. The speaker addresses the innovation of machine for soft coating the denim fabrics towards value addition.
Best Practice and Innovations in Color Assessment and Communication by Ms. Susanruth Williams, President, SDC, UK. – Assessment of color is done through subjective and objective methods. Due to the limitations of subjective methods; efforts are on to develop objective methods since 50 years. It is an important tool for product development. Information technology has become an important tool for the objective assessment along with the innovation and advancement in the instrumentation technology. Today, we have digital measurement tools with appropriate software for specific application area. However, and the solutions are not complete in all respect. Because the design development and consumer demand have made the job more challenging
While assessing the color, several factors are involved namely the color temperature, color rendering index, spectral power distribution index, chromaticity, light intensity and metamerism index in standardized lighting to view the color. Therefore precision, accuracy and tailor made tools are essential .Speaker addressed the above issue in detail. In addition to this, personal involved in color measurement must be proficient in standards and the intricacies involved .This can be achieved by knowledge base and skill. Substrate asymmetric can be overcome by digital color measurement. The author reiterated that virtual garment concept can be applied through color science and digital imaging instead of physical manufacture of the garment
Society of dyers and colorists UK – A professional body for assisting the trade and industry have brought out “Best practiced guides” .To assist the practiceners. The color descrimation test is another important tool for assessing the physiological and psychological factors of the color assessors. Through a number of slides, the speaker described how the color measurement science can serve the product development cycle in a scientific way.
The Garment Industry-An Overview by Mr. Rahul N. Metha, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd. – In the quota free regime, the garment industry is swinging with old player and new entrants. Small scale, medium scale and may be large scale operations in the manufacture could be some sort of metamorphosis going on. In fact, the export sector is in cross roads due to recession worldwide. However, new opportunities in importing countries like USA, EU are the out come of the quota free environment. These include large retailers and discount stores, with dominance of USA. India therefore needs to upgrade the technology and upscale its production capacity to much higher level than existing today. China is still a potent competitor; however, China centric strategies are not healthy growth. It is to work on India’s strength rather than combating with the strength of China. Some of strength areas of India are:
1. High value addition products
2. Hand work and personnel skill
3. Export order for Small and medium size lots
4. Designing capabilities
5. Flexibility
In the context of the global market, the separation of domestic and export market is becoming thinner. In this regard, all the professional associations should work together to work out a common strategies as responsible actors in the supply chain. Industry has the major strength of employment potential next to to agriculture with a major say in women work force. Branding is perhaps crucial and must convey the message to the rural, urban and semi-urban consumers about the potential traits of the product.
While concluding, the speaker reiterated that the current situation is challenging to India .and such India is not so much affected by the world recession due to its strong domestic market base.
Cotton County- Success Story by Mr. Sachin Sahani, Nahar Retail Ltd.
The presentation is a case study of the Indian retail, which is in the path of success. Speaker described the strength of the organization as under:
1. Integrated system of manufacture to manage quality, productivity, response time and other customer related issues.
2. Outsourcing of low cost processing monitored closely to achieve the desired results.
3. In house design and development team.
4. Matured management which has experience, efficiency, and effectiveness.
5. Wide apparel range with 100% cotton.
6. Information Technology based infrastructure-SAP-Retail ERP System
7. Growth of business in a time bound and planned manner
8. Strategy for business development through partnership.
9. Shifting the customers from unbranded to branded products instead of shifting of customers from some other brand to Cotton County.
GOTS Version 2.0 by Ms. Mecki Naschke, IMO, Switzerland – Organic textiles are becoming increasingly important due to worldwide ecological concern. Various protocols such as eco labels and environment management systems are getting updated based on the information gathered on the ec69o-properties of various input materials and market trends. In order to be in business, the producers and traders have to comply with the same. GOTS version 1.2got revised during June 2008 into GOTS Version2.0. Issues covered in the revision are harmonization of various input materials like optical brightners. Certain amendments are made to broaden the coverage of the scope.
Sustainability and Textiles Why?? by Mr. Ullhas Nimkar, CEO, Texanlab Pvt Ltd. – A review of the toxic and carcinogenic properties of various chemicals and dyes employed in the Textile processing was presented. A serious effect on the ecology and environment due to this were listed in terms of global perspectives. This paper complimented the other two presentations on GOTS and EU Ecolabels.
EU Flower, Sustainability in Textiles - UNEP offers Indian Textile Industry green Export Opportunities by Mr. Bas de Leeuw, UNEP, France – A number of initiatives taken by UNEP were discussed. The concept of increasing the number of exportable products from Brazil, China, and India with a bias to Ecolabels was pointed out. An interesting point was to support the national Ecolabels of the exporting countries. In this regard, India Eco-mark scheme may get some Philip in the future. It is also envisaged to work out a mutual recognition agreement (MRA) with other national Ecolabels.
Some of the initiatives to promote Ecolabels UNEP are listed as under:Training if Trainers programme to national Experts.
Technical assistance to industries interested in getting their products product accredited by EU Ecolabels
Survival of the fittest: Management Mantra 2009 by Mr. Rajiv Merchant, Creative Porticos (India) Pvt. Ltd – Speaker described the current situation as the mismatch of demand and supply. It is in this context the theology was proposed under “Survival of the Fittest”. There could be two options Viz; Supply higher than demand or Supply lower than demand. . In the context of supply higher than demand, there are soft survival option and hard survival option.
It was brought out that prediction of demand is tricky as it is uncertain and dynamic. However, the prediction using important tools like Market Research and Time series analysis at least for the period of six months may be used Some of the tips included Existing demand from same customers But more to same customer, Sell to new customers and sell to new territories. Another way to tackle the situation is address the innovation strategy. Product innovation and market innovation may be the immediate option, while innovation in technology is expensive and requires waiting period. In nut shell Product concept to retail could be addressed in the complex value chain. Hard survival option could be “stick to core completion area, sell more of necessities rather than luxury, and Bring efficiency in the business”.
Urgency to phase out of Carbon tetrachloride- Ozone Depleting Substance(ODS) by Ms. Meghna Udgire ,GTZ Proklima – One of the culprits causing depletion of ozone layer and also used as destainer in Textile and clothing Industry is carbon tetrachloride. There are substitutes available for the purpose and therefore this needs to be suspended from its use. Due to its non-availability, the cost of the same has gone up and it is also not economical. In this regards, the efforts made by German Development Organization- GTZ Proklima during last 4 years were presented.
The conference was attended by nearly 400 national and international delegates. There were sixteen papers presented by eminent speakers from India and abroad. Various speakers addressed the theme of the conference “Global Textile Opportunities Vision India “from different perspectives. Broadly, it includes internal factors and external factors.
Government Policies, Market environment, and world recession attracted the attention of the delegates as external factors. While, Product development, Environmental compliance, OGTS Eco-label Technical Textiles, Cost reduction and value addition etc formed the core of discussion under internal factors. Therefore, Vision 2020 needs greater attention in internal factors and unified approach of all the stake holders towards the external factors. There was a general consensus that the conference achieved its objectives both in terms of its content and participation.
The last session began with Highlights of the Conference by Dr. G. S. Nadiger, Director (Laboratories), Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India.
Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit proposed vote of thanks.